A Turkey to Georgia Itinerary (Including the Dogu Express!) Our Epic 10-day Family Overland Adventure

Are you wondering how you can travel from Turkey to Georgia overland with kids? Or perhaps any of these related questions…

• Is a road trip in Turkey a good idea? [We think so!]
• Can you cross into Georgia from Turkey? [We did!]
• Is there a train from Turkey to Georgia? [Sort of!]

Read on to hear about our epic 10-day adventure between these two amazing countries. Learn how we answered the above questions and discover our itinerary, including the 24-hour (turned 30-hour!) Ankara to Kars (Dogu Express) train trip.

Day 1: Fethiye to Selcuk via Akyaka

We said goodbye to Fethiye and headed to the gorgeous kite surfing and river town of Akyaka, just over an hour away.

Akyaka has wonderful chilled-out vibes. It’s a lovely place to take a stroll along the waterfront or a dip in the water. You’ll find plenty of trendy cafes for coffee or food, and you can take a boat trip along the river if you wish.

After lunch, it was time to get back on the road again and drive almost 2.5 hours to Selcuk to spend the night.

Ruins adorned with lights in the town center offered us a glimpse of what we’d see tomorrow, and we enjoyed a delicious traditional meal in the center before heading back to our hotel.

Day 2: Selcuk to Istanbul

We arrived at Ephesus at 8:30 am, thinking we’d manage to beat the crowds then. Tour buses often don’t show up at these places until about 9:30 am. But nope, they beat us to it!

Ephesus is a magnificent site to wander around and enjoy a glimpse into ancient history. If you’re going to visit ruins in Turkey, make sure these are the ones!

If you’re a Turkish resident, be sure to get a museum pass. It’s only a one-off 60tl, and it gives you entry into all the main museum sites for the whole year.

We got ours in Cappadocia and saved a ton – the entry fee for individual museums is often 100-200tl, and we’ve been to five or six places with it so far (examples include the Ihlara canyon and the underground cities in Cappadocia).

The afternoon and evening drive to istanbul

After Ephesus, we set off on the big drive to Istanbul. The roads are fast, and you can get there with 5.5 hours of driving when you take the toll roads. The tolls add up, but it was worth it for us to save almost two hours of driving time.

I think we left Ephesus about 11 am and didn’t arrive in Istanbul until 9 pm by the time we had a decent lunch and dinner stop.

Lunch was at one of the well-equipped roadside service areas with petrol, restaurants, and a playground.

Dinner was at a little harbor town called Gemlik, where we found two playgrounds and a great little pizza place.

Ayla counted 39 cats today?.

The drivers got crazier the closer we got to Istanbul. We are grateful to be alive and that we’re returning the car tomorrow.

We’re staying in the historic center. It’s not a great place to drive; we don’t recommend it. The day ended with the stress of finding a park and getting kids and bags to our little aparthotel.

Colin was a legend lugging all the bags three storeys up a tiny spiral staircase. Kids were in bed at 10:30 pm, and adults were winding down an hour later, ready to enjoy a hopefully restful night!

Day 3: Istanbul

We started the day with a quick playground stop. Short playground visits aren’t usually our style, but we explained to the girls that we were taking them to a special type of playground in the afternoon where we knew they’d want to maximize their time.

Making the most of having the car, we took a 25-minute drive over to Legoland to spend the afternoon.

This is a small Legoland in a mall, so it’s not on the scale of Legoland Malaysia, where we stayed for a couple of months and visited a few times every week to make sure we got through it all!

There’s plenty to keep the littles busy for half a day or more, though. There are a couple of rides, a few 15-minute 4D movies throughout the day, a decent soft play area, a Duplo area, and plenty of Lego building stations. We’d recommend it if you’re looking for things to do in Istanbul with kids.

A scary Istanbul driving experience for Colin

We stayed at Legoland the whole afternoon, and Colin left a little early to drop the car back. I mentioned the Istanbul traffic yesterday. Well, today Colin had a shake-up when he came across a car wheel on the highway. Swerving or driving on it didn’t seem like good ideas, so he decided to straddle it and didn’t quite clear it.

He got to the side of the road safely to decide his next move. Hazard lights and arm waving didn’t alert anyone to stop and help, but he managed to jack the car up and get it off the wheel, only to discover the car wouldn’t start anymore.

Through some WhatsApp communication with the car hire guy and an aptly timed tow truck driving by, he finally managed to rid himself of the car and make the long journey back to us via public transport and on foot.

Meanwhile, the girls and I opted to train halfway home once we realized the evening traffic would triple our journey time. And then, once we got off the train, we decided to walk the last 30 minutes since it would take the same time to drive it. So I set about carrying Romy back home, which I thought was a good idea anyway to get in a bit of a workout!

I previously thought it might be nice to spend a few months in this vibrant city. However, as we walked through the crowded streets, horns honking around us, I wasn’t so sure!

Day 4: Istanbul

We still need to do normal life stuff while we’re traveling. This morning Colin headed to work while I took on the task of lightening our load (i.e., sending Ayla’s most prized artwork back to New Zealand!).

Even though it’s not at all glamorous or even overly exciting, it’s often these sorts of experiences that help us learn, grow, and discover local life.

We’d already realized you have to take packages to the post office ready to go, so we set off up the hilly backstreets of Istanbul looking for a stationery shop.

Ayla’s canvas was too big for normal packaging, so we were directed to a paper shop where they bubble-wrapped and taped it up. Ayla wrote her Nanna’s name and address on the front, then we were good to go!

Soon enough, it was time for our daily obligatory playground stop and pide for lunch – a Turkish staple for us here over the past year.

A self-designed walking tour of Istanbul

It was time to explore in the afternoon with our very own self-made walking tour!

We started toward the little Aya Sofia mosque, then through the little Bazaar, and onto the grand blue mosque and Hagia Sophia.

We didn’t actually go inside any of the mosques today. The blue mosque is undergoing restorations, although we could have gone in. We decided we’d just choose one and that it would be the Hagia Sophia, which we understand to be the most beautiful and steeped in history.

However, we just couldn’t do it with the line and kids ?. We are considering going back on Friday morning before it opens, as it’s busy all day every day.

Instead, we lined up for the Basilica Cistern, a massive Roman underground water source adorned with more than 300 marble columns. Complete with modern artwork, it’s a spectacular site. But honestly, it’s very crowded, and our kids seemed to expect something else, so I found it rather overwhelming there.

Next, we headed across to Gulhane park for some reprieve. The kids played in the playground while we enjoyed the greenery among the friendly street dogs.

Our final stop today was at the Grand Bazaar. The kids were briefed about staying with their assigned adult as we strolled around this iconic market, sampling the best Turkish delight in the country!

Day 5: Istanbul

Today’s sightseeing mission got off to a late start after I spent longer than intended at work, but we finally managed to get out and about!

We took our first tram rides today across the river to walk the bustling streets of Beyoglu and then back again. Our main target was the Galata tower, one of the city’s most prominent landmarks.

This restored tower from the 5th century is a former prison boasting panoramic views around the city. Of course, you must wait patiently in line to go up, but the vistas and experience were worth it. This was yet another place that was free for us to visit with our museum cards.

You catch the elevator five floors up and then walk the last two. On the sixth level, you can look out of each window for various perspectives of the city, and the top level takes you outdoors to traverse the narrow pathway around the top with crowds of other people.

It’s fun walking back down the tower stairs and stopping at each level to check out the artifacts and exhibits – it’s like a mini museum on the way back down. If you’re looking for things to do in Istanbul, we’d recommend checking out the Galata tower!

Istikal street and more traffic

From there, we headed to Istikal street, a bustling shopping street with a modern look. There’s a cute little tourist tram that’s meant to run up and down the street, although we didn’t see it running.

The evening was getting on by this stage, but we thought we’d head down to Kabatas ferry terminal to see if we could jump on a Bosphorus dinner cruise. Alas, we were mistaken. No dinner cruises from there.

We could have taken the passenger ferry, but we’d already had enough of navigating the city for one day. Instead, we sat on the footpath and ate barbequed corn on the cob, a street food staple in Turkey.

After just a few days, we’ve had enough of the intensity of a huge city to last us at least a year?. We’ve carried miss three up several hills and have run down just as many trying to keep up with the kids and keep them away from the traffic. But first, there’s one more day to enjoy before we hit the road again and continue en route to Georgia?.

Day 6: Istanbul

On our final morning in Istanbul, we got the opportunity to step inside the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, also known as Ayasofya in Turkish.

We lined up at 8:30 am in time for its 9 am opening, and with the queue that continued to form behind us, we’re glad we went early.

The Hagia Sophia has huge cultural, historical, and religious significance. This beautiful mosque has changed hands a few times throughout history, the evidence of which is still apparent today. In a high corner at the front, you can see an image of Jesus, partially hidden behind a white sheet hung in front.

The building was a Greek Orthodox church from 360 AD until the Ottomans took over Constantinople in 1453. Minarets were added, and it was a mosque until 1935.

From 1935 until 2020, it was a museum, and today it’s again a mosque. Anyone can visit the Hagia Sophia, and there is no entry fee. Visitors must cover up, and women must wear a head scarf to enter (you can borrow one near the entrance if you don’t have one).

We didn’t get up to much else today. Colin took the girls to the playground, and they hung out at home while I went to work for the afternoon. We’re glad we got to check out the Hagia Sophia before the next leg of our trip, and would definitely recommend it if you’re looking for things to do in Istanbul.

Day 7: Istanbul to Ankara

I thought today would be only about the train, but I was wrong. It has been so much more!

Don’t go to Ankara, they said! We’re only here for one night, and the reason we’re here is to catch the Dogu Express across Turkey tomorrow night. But I would certainly stay here longer…

Istanbul has excellent food and interesting history and culture. It just felt too much energetically for us. So many people, so much traffic, and so long to get anywhere.

Today we took the high speed train to central Ankara. The 4.5-hour ride was comfortable, and I felt instantly relaxed with nothing to do except the constant trade of activities for Romy (mostly different drawing activities). It was so nice to be completely present with no jobs to do and no traffic stressing me out.
high-speed.

If you catch the train and think you might like lunch, take it with you! There are only drinks and very basic snack foods on board. We had coffee at the station and bought filled rolls there before we left, plus we had our own snacks.

Chilling out and exploring the green spaces in Ankara

We arrived in the city center, and we still felt relaxed. Sure, there’s busy city center traffic, but it doesn’t have the same intensity as Istanbul.

We’re staying in a central hotel across the road from a beautiful mosque. No doubt our morning wake-up call will be a loud one!

Also over the road is a huge park (Genclik park). It’s beautifully manicured with plenty of green space, various playgrounds, and several fountains. It’s a lovely spot to chill out and take a stroll. (It looks like there are several fantastic green spaces around the city).

As you walk through the park, you’ll see and hear Luna park, a theme park with plenty of fun rides for the kids. Of course, ours “had” to go there!

We had tons of fun on the dodgems and Ferris wheel – two rides we could do as a family. The girls did a few more before they got too cold and hungry – dinner was calling!

Istanbul has a lot going for it in terms of food, and Ankara… well, we just got here, but we’re in the city center and struggling to find any sort of restaurants, let alone amazing ones. We did find omelets, cheese toast, and chips for dinner in the end?.

Day 8: Ankara to middle of nowhere

The girls and I went out this morning to make the most of being in Ankara, a city with fabulous museums and green spaces. Had we stayed longer, we would have visited the science and natural history museums. But there was plenty to see within walking distance of our hotel.

So we headed up the hill to Ankara castle, a free attraction with fantastic panoramic views of the city.

The castle is in a charming historical area with cobblestoned streets that are lovely for a wander. There’s little traffic and plenty of stores selling beautiful handmade and local products. There are also quaint and simple little eateries selling traditional Turkish food and drink. It’s the perfect area to grab a gozleme and a Turkish coffee or chai.

In the same area are several museums. We went to the Rahmi M. Koc museum as a kid-friendly choice. Seeing the range of beautifully made historical items on display blew me away.

This museum is way bigger than I anticipated, and we kept going from room to room, checking out everything from old cars, bikes, prams, music devices, and household items to intricately designed doll houses and so much more. I highly recommend this museum as an awesome family-friendly place to visit. It won’t disappoint!

Time to board the Dogu Express!

By the time we got back to the hotel, we needed some downtime, so we hung out in the lounge for an hour or so before we headed to the train station.

At 5:55 pm, we left on the Dogu Express (Eastern Express), due to arrive in Kars, East Turkey, just over 24 hours later.

We booked one of the cuchettes – our own wee section with seats that pull down into beds. We weren’t sure about blankets, pillows, or sheets, but we were given those shortly after departure. You can control the temperature in your cuchette, so we’re set for a cozy night on board?

Day 9: Middle of Nowhere to Kars

We woke up feeling not so rested after our night on the train… clearly, we need more practice sleeping on these things!

If you plan to take the Dogu Express, my biggest tip is to go prepared with plenty of food. You could be forgiven for assuming the restaurant cart might serve you meals. Apparently, they used to, but with all the restrictions that came from the pandemic, they stopped serving meals and haven’t started again. You can buy really basic drinks and snacks; that’s it. Do not even expect Turkish coffee; it’s processed Nescafe sachets only.

Anyway, we’re grateful we came prepared to feed ourselves breakfast, lunch, and snacks!

The other big tip… Don’t expect the train to arrive on time. Apparently, the high-speed services are pretty good – we were impressed we arrived in Ankara exactly on time yesterday.

But we mistakenly expected our 24-hour train would arrive at 6:30 pm. Not so much… We didn’t get in until midnight?. The kids did super well and managed to get in a bit of sleep before we had to wake them to get off the train.

So what did we do all day? We played Uno, did puzzles, the girls played with their toys, and we spent lots of time in the food carriage just sitting and looking out the window or chatting (because there was more space in there than in our room!).

Day 10: Kars (Turkey) to Batumi (Georgia)

After our midnight arrival, we had a cozy sleep but had to wake the girls early. We didn’t really know how the day would pan out or exactly how we’d get to Georgia!

We tried to book a transfer, but that idea fell through. With no sign that a one-way car hire would be possible, the bus it was!

The original plan was to stay a couple of nights in Kars, but we had to adjust plans when we couldn’t get the Dogu Express on the day we wanted. Then knowing Colin had a work meeting he couldn’t really do on a travel day and the fact that our visas were due to expire in a couple of days, we had to continue onward!

So we didn’t see anything of Kars, but enough to know we were a long way from the tourist-centered areas we’ve mostly frequented in Turkey!

The girls did super well on the six-plus hour bus ride from Kars to Hopa. The landscape of gentle rolling hills is pretty brown and barren and certainly has a very remote feel.

Soon enough we had mountains towering around us, offering a striking landscape. Never have we been through so many kilometers of tunnels in quick succession!

Turkey to Georgia: The Border Crossing

From Hopa, we jumped straight in a taxi for the 30-minute drive to the border. Taxis are super affordable around here, so we didn’t need to worry that there’s only one bus per day on this route, which leaves early morning.

Arriving at the border at Sarp, we proceeded to load ourselves up with all our gear. And what a load it was considering we decided to bring things we don’t normally travel with, such as a slackline and roller blades?. Today’s workout was simply the walk across the border!

Across the border, we got stamped in to Georgia, where, excitingly, we can stay for up to one year visa-free. The final leg of today’s journey was a 35- minute taxi ride into Batumi.

What a day! After having trouble getting into our apartment (the lockbox with the keys was jammed) we finally made it and headed to a local restaurant along the road. Colin had a delicious potato and mushroom dish with perhaps the best roast potatoes I’ve ever tasted. I had an interesting dish of spinach ball things, stuffed peppers, and eggplant ?.

So that was our epic 10-day road trip from Turkey to Georgia! If you like reading about road trips, check out our post about our 10-day road trip in Sumatra, Southeast Asia.

For more about Turkey, you can read our blogs about Kas, Antalya, Dalyan, and Pamukkale. Stay tuned to hear about the best things to do in Batumi, coming soon!